FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What kind of dog is THAT?!

Thank you! It is a BRITTANY - it is NOT a Brittany SPANIEL! One more time - it is a BRITTANY!

(sorry but this is a pet peeve!)

Named for the French province in which it originated, the name was officially changed by the American Kennel Club (AKC) on September 1, 1982. Although until then called a spaniel, the manner in which it hunts it is more pointer like. It is not a flushing dog which is what spaniels are.  In appearance, it is smaller than a setter but leggier than a spaniel, with a short tail and a characteristic high ear set. In general, the Brittany is described as being between 17 1/2 to 20 1/2 inches at the shoulder, and weighing between 30 and 40 pounds. Colors are usually white with orange, or white with liver, but may also be roan, tricolors, or variations.

Is a Brittany a good family dog?

Brittanys make fantastic family dogs -- by nature they are intelligent and of good temperament. They are also very active, and although most any Britt loves a good snooze on your bed or living room couch, they do need regular outdoor exercise. A fenced back yard protects your dog against cars (and neighbor kids and dogs), but most likely your dog will only get enough exercise if you're out there, too. Better yet, daily walks (or runs) on a leash will be the best exercise for you BOTH! Do not ever leave your dog tied or chained outside alone -- he'll get lonely, bored, or even seriously injured.

What are a Brittanys grooming needs?

One of the Brittany's best advantages is that it is not a high maintenance dog in terms of coat care and upkeep. Most do well with a medium-sized yard, as well as a good run in a safe schoolyard or park on occasion. I like to run mine leashed alongside my bike, as well. The dogs take to it easily and love it! Brittanys are most definitely people-oriented dogs and do require attention every day. They don't do well without it, and may let you know by their undesirable behaviors if they are not getting enough.

The medium-length coat needs no clipping if your dog is strictly a pet. It will need a good brushing with a slicker brush once or twice a week to get out dead hair (especially at the start of fall and spring), and to make sure the dog is free of parasites such as fleas or ticks. Don't forget nail clippers! Long nails are not only unattractive and ruin a dog's feet, but the longer they get the more danger there is of one being torn off. For the pet, bathe only when the dog is very dirty and a good thorough brushing won't do the job. You can use any basic dog shampoo for this. Avoid excessive bathing (not more than once every two weeks, if possible) as this strips the dog's coat of its natural oils and will dry out the skin and coat.

What are a Brittany's basic needs (food, medical, toys, teeth, crate training, etc.)

Like all dogs, Brittanys need food and regular veterinary care, including routine checkups and vaccinations. They are generally very good eaters, and must not be allowed to get fat (average weight is 35-45 lbs.). They need a few good toys, especially if left alone for long periods of time. a couple of "real" bones (bought in a pet store), an occasional rawhide or cow hoof to clean teeth, and a ball or stuffed toy. We highly recommend crate training for all dogs, especially during puppy housebreaking. Brittanys usually use a #300, or Intermediate, size crate (about 21-23" high).

OBEDIENCE TRAININGis always a plus to help make a good pet. Brittanys vary in temperament, and each requires a different method of training as some are very sensitive ("soft") and require only verbal corrections, while others need to be forced to do the right thing a few times before they will obey. Training and socializing from an early age is very important to develop a happy Britt and owner. Talk to your dog's breeder, or another breeder if yours isn't available. Most breeders and vets can give good advice on general maintenance if you have any questions.

Many people have the misconception that all Brittanys are high-strung and need many miles of exercise everyday. But if you meet enough Brittanys from different lines, you'll find that what the breeders tell you is true - Brittanys are not a breed for generalizations. They range from mellow to hyper, big to small, and soft to hard tempered.

What should I be looking for ?

Brittanys are, above all, DUAL quality dogs. Brittanys have more Dual Champions (dogs which are Champions in field trials and bench show competition) than all Sporting breeds combined. Most Brittanys have a mild to strong hunting instinct, and no matter where you get your Britt from, chances are you will be able to make it into at least an average hunter. Some dogs need more field training than others to develop their instinct. Your best bet is to find a breeder who is tries to maintain a "dual quality" line by proving their dogs' abilities in field and show, and occasionally crossing out to other "dual quality" lines to better their own.

Your best bet is to meet the dog's parents or other close relatives, or talk to several people who have relatives if it's not possible to meet some. This should give you some idea of the temperament the dog may develop, as temperament does run in the line and is heritable.

Look at the dog's pedigree and ask the breeder if there are dogs in the puppy's immediate background (not more than 3 or 4 generations) from both field and show stock. Most Brittanys are from Dual backgrounds. Remember that the parents and grandparents are the most influential on the puppy's outcome.

You should look for a pedigree with DCh. (Dual Champion), FCh. (Field Champion), and Ch. (Show Champion) combined, or, with dogs with "points" towards these titles. Look for hunting test titles JH, SH, and MH (Junior, Senior, and Master Hunter), which are more hunter's companion titles. Also ask the dog's breeder if the dog's parents or grandparents (or other close relations) are successful hunting companions.

Be sure the parents, and preferably grandparents as well, are clear of genetic defects such as hip dysplasia and epilepsy. It is important to choose a breeder who will be open with you on these matters, and who consistently gets genetic clearances/certifications on ALL of their breeding stock.

MALE or FEMALE?

Many people have a personal preference to the sex of their pet. But once again, Brittanys are not a breed for generalizations. Characteristics vary from dog to dog, not within sexes. If you are getting a dog strictly for a companion, you should plan on having it spayed or neutered, and this will eliminate most behavioral influences, such as possible roaming in the male or false pregnancies in the female.

Please consider the following if you think you want a dog to breed:

You will not get an exact replica of your dog. Puppies are a combination of both parents. Better to get another dog from the same line from an established, responsible breeder, which will get you about the same results and will cost you a lot less!

There is no medical or psychological reason to breed any dog. Not every dog is breeding quality. Hip dysplasia is a crippling and hereditary disease. HD, epilepsy, and other hereditary diseases are becoming extremely common. You must plan to have your dog, and the dog you plan to breed it to, O.F.A certified for hips as well as cleared for other hereditary disorders. Why create dogs predisposed to these things when there are thousands of genetically healthy ones who would make far better contributors to the breed?

If you care about your breed, you will think long and hard before you breed any dog. Breeding should be done only with two genetically, mentally, and physically sound dogs. AKC registration guarantees NONE of this! If you still wish to breed your dog, take the time to do it right. There are enough dogs (including a surprising number of Brittanys) in the pound. Most are products of irresponsible breeders who breed for short-term results, such as "profit" or because they thought their pet or hunting dog should just have one litter. If you do breed, find a good breeder and talk to them about breeding to a healthy, proven stud dog. Return to top

ADULT, OLDER PUPPY or YOUNG PUPPY?

Few people set out to purchase an older dog, unless they are looking for one already trained and/or started in the field or show. But consider the advantages! While no one can deny that all puppies are cute, at the same time who wouldn't mind missing the chewing and housebreaking stages? If you get a dog from a good breeder who "hand-raises" dogs in the house, it will likely have few undesirable traits. There will probably be little question as to how the dog will turn out, so if you are looking for a good show or hunting prospect, you can be sure of what you're getting in an older, started dog. Also consider that an older dog, if socialized with children, may make a more tolerating pet for younger children, and for that matter the children won't have to deal with a mauling puppy! Many breeders occasionally have dogs anywhere from 3 months to several years old or know someone who does. You may also consider adopting a rescued Brittany from the American Brittany Rescue, a growing organization dedicated to placing healthy, good-tempered Brittanys in new homes when they are unwanted or uncared for. Older dogs are less advertised, so ask around at shows or field trials.

What activities and events are good for Brittanys?

If you are interested in the many activities the Brittany is able to compete in, be sure to tell the breeder of the dog you plan to get, or talk to other people involved in that aspect, as there are many people in our breed who are willing to help newcomers get started. The most common activities Brittanys often compete in are:

- Field Trials (for the finished field dog or promising youngster)

- Bench Shows (to find the dog that is structurally closest to the AKC's Standard of perfection)

- Hunting Tests (for hunting companions of all levels of ability)

- Obedience Trials (for the obedience trained dog)

- Tracking Tests (for tracking certified dogs who can follow a scent on the ground)

- Agility Trials (for dogs trained to go over, under, and through obstacles on a course)

- Junior Showmanship (for kids 10-18 with any breed dog - show handling judged, not dog)

If you go to a dog show in your area, many breeders/exhibitors will be able to help you get started with your Brittany in any of these areas. Again, these are "DUAL DOGS" and many show exhibitors also hunt and compete in other activities with their Brittanys, so ask around.

Any additional advice, comments for finding a Brittany?

Brittanys are excellent family dogs and excel in many areas, but they are not for everyone. They require personal attention every day, and most do not make good "kennel" or outdoor dogs because of their personal devotion to their owners. On the other hand, their medium size, wash-and-wear coat, and happy, intelligent temperament makes them a good family dog. Brittanys are also very devoted, and make excellent hunting companions or pets for single people. Most get along very well with other dogs, and many love the challenges of different types of competition.

Breeders differ in intent of breeding and the dogs they produce, so talk to several breeders and find the one you like the best. Be willing to wait for the right puppy or older dog from a breeder of choice - most responsible breeders have a waiting list of potential buyers before they ever have a litter. Do not buy a puppy of any breed on impulse. If you are very serious about getting a Brittany, you should be willing "shop around" and/or wait for the right one for your family and/or your needs and wants. These are long-lived dogs (average 12-14) and hopefully you intend to keep the dog for its entire lifetime. Puppies are cute, but they grow out of that cute stage, and it's up to you as to whether they become a devoted and obedient companion or an unmanageable, hyper dog. The more time you put into your dog's upbringing and training, the more it will give back to you. Remember that there are many breeders around who are more than willing to help anyone who is a fellow "Brittany Fan!"

How do I housebreak my Brittany (crate training)?

Housebreaking in theory is very simple. It is finding a means of preventing the puppy from doing his duties in the house and giving him only an opportunity to do it outside. A dog is a strong creature of habit and because he learns by association, he will soon know there is no other place to relieve himself but the great outdoors.  

The trick then, is to find this magic means of prevention. Here we take advantage of a very natural instinct of the dog -- his desire to keep his sleeping quarters clean - i.e.: not to mess his bed. It only follows that if we can devise a bed that he cannot get out of - then presto - he is going to stay clean. Add to this a common sense schedule of being taken from his bed to outside and we have the perfect answer to housebreaking.

Now to the important part - the common sense schedule we mentioned earlier. We'll start with the last thing at night. Bedtime for the puppy. Take the puppy out and give him an opportunity to do his duties (If possible, and you are in a protected area, let him go free of the leash. Very often to start with, the leash can be sufficient restriction to keep him from doing his duties.) Take him inside at once and put him in his crate.

The first thing in the morning (and I mean the first thing) pick him up and take him outside. He's been clean all night - and holding it all night - he should do his duties in a hurry. Now bring him in and give him freedom, but in the kitchen only. A child's gate at the kitchen doorway is an excellent barrier to the other rooms in the house. Give him his freedom while breakfast is being prepared and while you are eating breakfast. After your breakfast, and when you have time to take him out, feed him his breakfast - and take him out immediately. Remember the rule - outside after each meal.

Now bring him in and put him in his crate and go about your normal routine of the morning. He should stay in the crate until about 11:00 to 11:30 A.M., then out of the crate and outside. Bring him in, and while you are preparing and eating lunch let him have the freedom of the kitchen only, for an hour or two. Follow this with a quick trip outside. Then back in and into the crate until 4:00 P.M.

It is now time to feed him his dinner. Save yourself an extra trip outside - feed him in the crate. As soon as he has finished his last mouthful - take him outside. After he has completed his duties, bring him in and again give him the freedom of the kitchen while you are preparing dinner and during the dinner hour. Give him another trip outside about 8:00 P.M. - and again just before your bedtime.

Keep up this 24 hour schedule for at least 2 weeks, so that by prevention in the house and repetition of the habit of doing his duties outside, he has the firm association with the proper place to relieve himself. you can now start increasing his freedom out of the crate. Do this by first giving him freedom in the morning but again only in the kitchen. If he remains clean then the next day, try freedom in the afternoon. It is only thru these testing periods that you will know when he has arrived at the point of being reliable.

You should continue for a few more weeks (depending on the individual puppy) to put him in the crate during the two most crucial periods - at night and when he is left alone in the house during the day (shopping periods, etc.)

Now that you have him reliable as far as the kitchen is concerned start introducing him to the other rooms of the house, but under strict supervision.

Do not give him any food after 6 P.M. It takes a dog about 6 hours to digest his food and have an elimination as a result of that meal. Any food after 6:00 PM may give him an unexpected urge after he is put to bed.

In spite of a rigid routine, your pup may have an occasional accident during his periods of freedom. Here is where correction is necessary. If you catch him in the act, with a loud "NO" put him outside at once. Remember, a dog learns by association and in connection with any act of wrong doing, he must eceive some form of discomfort in order to learn that he has done wrong. However, you must catch him in the act - it does absolutely no good to punish him for a mistake he has made an hour or even five minutes earlier. This applies whether the mistake is messing on the floor or chewing your best pair of shoes.

During periods of freedom watch for any circling around, sudden loss of interest in a toy, or going towards the door. These are signs he needs to go out.

Make good common sense the rule of the day.